Monday January 30 - Mysore

Full day of touring in and around Mysore today. First I must mention that we are staying at the Hotel Lalita Mahal Palace, a former palace converted into a hotel which is now a sad shadow of its former self. Public areas appear grand and dazzling; our breakfast area has 30' ceilings and stained glass domes. As you enter the hotel you see an wooden elephant inlaid with ivory, a double staircase and magnificent chandeliers. However the rooms are, shall I say, not quite so grand. Despite the fact that it is now high season in India, we rattle around in this palace rarely meeting another guest. Last night (I'm writing on Tuesday am) Ferris and I went to have a drink and the English-style bar was padlocked. The dining room empty. We had to roust a bartender who was brought in to unlock the place.

Our day was extremely interesting. In the morning we drove 33km outside to town to visit what I would say is one of the most beautiful historic sights I've ever seen - I'd place it in my top 10 list of favorites. Somnathapur, dedicated to Vishnu, is an intricately carved star shaped Prasanna Channakeshara Temple built in 1268AD during the Hoysala Dynasty (contemporary to the Cholla). Delicately carved entirely of soapstone, I felt as if I were standing inside a jewel box.

Lakuma delighted to be speaking to "Mr. Cliff"

Lakuma told us that it took 1,000 people over 60 years to create this exquisite temple whose exterior carvings tell the story of the Ramayana. (Rama, the hero of the Ramayana, is the 7th incarnation of Vishnu). She said that until a few years ago when a new road was build from Mysore it used to be an entire day's journey to come here. Now it is (well, for India) quite easy. I highly recommend this a stop of anyone traveling in South India.

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Sugar Cane

Rice

As we drove through the lush countryside we passed Mulberry, Banyan, Betel and Coconut trees. My new favorite thing to photograph are colorfully painted oxcarts (actually they're called bullock carts here) depicting Hindu iconography. We walked through a local village, had a chance to see houses up close and interacted with several families.  In one location we even saw jaggery being which brought back many fond childhood memories for Lakuma.

The best part is that every cart has different paintings.

Young girl at jaggery factory.

There I happened to spot an iridescent turquoise Kingfisher bird sitting on a rock in the river. Had no idea they were so gorgeous.

Not bad for a Canon S100 from far away!

We stopped to experience a wedding ceremony for villagers. Actually we happened upon the scene a bit early and saw preliminary ceremonies only. But it was fun seeing the huge crowds that came, the colorful saris, the flowers, coconuts, the groom whose face was painted and the dressing of the bride whose hair was braided with jasmine flowers.

Preparation for Wedding Ceremony

While riding on the bus Lakuma taught us more about Hindu gods. She has colorful laminated cards showing images of deities. She held each up individually giving us time to tell her what we saw on each card and guess which deity we thought it might be. I had a flashback to my art history class days at Wellesley. Brahma has multiple heads, Shiva is depicted holding a trident and deer, and Vishnu holding a wheel and conch. Brahma wife is Sarasvati goddess of learning (Brahma's symbols: prayer chain/rosary beads and pot of water symbolizing the fact that he is the creator), Shiva's wife is Parvati goddess of power, Vishnu's wife is Lakshmi goddess of wealth.

Next we toured Tipu's Summer Palace (Daria Daulat Bagh) built in 1784 and made entirely of teak wood which is now a museum. Inside are gorgeous paintings of the life and times of ruler Tipu (no photos allowed).

We ended the day on Chamudi Hill visiting the Sri Chamundeswari Temple and the famous 16.5 ft tall Nandi (Shiva's Bull). I remember this bull so well from my childhood visit to India with my aunt Eze. Made sure to have my picture taken in front of it!